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    一位美國農場主的擔憂:餐廳紛紛關門,農場給誰供貨?

    一位美國農場主的擔憂:餐廳紛紛關門,農場給誰供貨?

    Adam Erace 2020年04月09日
    疫情讓一位農場主的客戶幾乎全部歇業。

    伊恩·布倫德家務農的歷史内蒙古11选5走势图,可以追溯到他父親那一脈六代以前内蒙古11选5走势图。布倫德家的可持續農場“綠草地”占地22英畝,位于美國賓夕法尼亞州中南部的蘭卡斯特縣——一個擁有全美最高產的無灌溉農田的縣城。布倫德說:“蘭卡斯特縣五分之一的工作都和農業有關?!?/p>

    從漢密爾頓主持修建獨立廳的日子算起,該縣就成了費城真正意義上的生命線;而位于城鎮和鄉村之間的蘭開斯特大道,綿延60英里,是為了方便農民送貨而建。布倫德延續了這一傳統,每周四開著卡車(冬季兩輛,旺季最多四輛)給120位主廚的餐廳送貨内蒙古11选5走势图。但最近内蒙古11选5走势图,這些客戶的餐廳幾乎都因新冠病毒的蔓延而暫時關閉了。

    《財富》雜志對布倫德進行了采訪,詢問冠狀病毒對其用工情況和未來計劃的影響,也了解了他如何消化冠狀病毒帶來的情緒和財務上的壓力。

    以下采訪內容經過精簡及少量編輯内蒙古11选5走势图。

    伊恩·布倫德的家族從事農業的歷史可以追溯到六代人以前。圖片來源:伊恩·布倫德

    《財富》:綠草地是如何起步的?

    布倫德:我父親家本來是務農的,后來他上了大學,畢業后在工程行業工作,但他一直有一個半英畝的花園。有一天内蒙古11选5走势图,他發現農業才是他真正想做的事業。70年代末80年代初,他把阿米什人帶去雷丁車站市場,后來他問能不能從他的花園里帶一些東西來賣内蒙古11选5走势图内蒙古11选5走势图。那差不多算是我們農場的起源。廚師們來到市場,從他那里買些東西餐館的原材料,再后來他買了輛二手小貨車,裝一個箱子,開始往城里送東西内蒙古11选5走势图。

    那時人們對當地可持續種植的農產品興趣大嗎?

    剛起步時,想要把同樣能在農產品區買到東西賣到兩倍的價格,真的是一件很難的事情。你需要跟他們解釋:“這是我昨天才摘的,也就是說昨天剛從地里挖出來的。如果你好好儲存,能放上兩禮拜,不像那些從外地運來的東西,你收到的時候可能已經從地里摘出來一兩個禮拜了?!边@是我父親早期向人推銷的賣點内蒙古11选5走势图,后來我們在此基礎上逐步發展。

    農場是從什么時候開始真正發展起來?

    大概在21世紀初,我決定以經營農場為生。雖然在此之前内蒙古11选5走势图内蒙古11选5走势图,批發業務就已經存在了。但真正爆炸式發展,真的有越來越多的人關注食物的來源是在21世紀初。我們每周都會將訂貨表通過電子郵箱發給大約650個人内蒙古11选5走势图,其中約有120個人一整年都會下單。在淡季,比如假期剛過那段時間,每天可能只有35到40個訂單内蒙古11选5走势图。但在夏末秋初的旺季,每天最多能送75單内蒙古11选5走势图。

    大西洋中部正在步入春天,果樹開了花,坡道上五顏六色内蒙古11选5走势图。農場里的氣氛怎么樣?

    當前的不確定性,使我們無法在春季全力以赴,這必然造成了很大阻礙。事發前一周,我們還送了53單内蒙古11选5走势图。那些提供外賣的餐館仍在下訂單。差不多是平常業務量的10%。我們還用餐館里回收的油為溫室供能,現在也弄不到了∧诿晒?1选5走势图,F有儲備還夠用一個季度,但如果不能為冬天做足儲備,就將損失一大筆錢。

    像綠草地這樣的小型家庭農場經濟上會受到什么影響?

    哪怕經濟景氣時,靠種地賺錢也是很困難的。為什么農民和廚師能和諧相處?至少在我看來,全國農民和廚師整體上相處地非常和諧。這或許因為内蒙古11选5走势图,我們把擁有的一切内蒙古11选5走势图,無論是經濟還是精神上的一切,都投入到了農場和餐館中内蒙古11选5走势图。但得到的經濟回報卻少得可憐。我真覺得,美國政府被打了個措手不及。如果說有什么事能讓大家認識到,事情真的需要發生改變内蒙古11选5走势图,就是當前正在發生的了内蒙古11选5走势图。

    這是當地農民的普遍看法嗎?

    除了農場種地的農民,我很少和本地其他農民交流。我爸爸、我還有我們的工作人員,我們不是蘭卡斯特縣農業的典型代表。

    綠草地為120位廚師餐廳供貨内蒙古11选5走势图,而這些客戶的餐廳最近幾乎都因為冠狀病毒大流行暫時關閉了内蒙古11选5走势图。圖片來源:伊恩·布倫德

    綠草地的主要客戶是餐廳,眼下你要如何調整農場業務?

    當一切都在走下坡路時,我的得力助手戴夫·卡爾說:“伙計,我們做個面向普通消費者的產品盒子吧?!蔽抑?内蒙古11选5走势图,做農場共享、農場盒子或社區支持農業都不是什么新鮮事,但對我們來說卻是全新的,真的就像離開了水的魚。我們目前在做30美元的單盒和55美元的雙盒,還有肉類和奶制品盒子,在費城城內及周邊有四個取貨點。

    農場盒子里一般都有什么?

    現在内蒙古11选5走势图,每個人的免疫系統都比任何時候更需要增強,所以我們會把農場種植的天然抗病毒或者對人體免疫系統非常有益的食材放進盒子。例如,本周我們會配送圣羅勒和茼蒿,這是一種日本菊科植物,在亞洲有些地方當作補品。還有蜂蜜、蘑菇、西洋菜苔,都非常有營養,味道也很好内蒙古11选5走势图。

    農場盒子能維持農場這段時間的運營嗎?

    目前為止,我們已經有60個注冊用戶内蒙古11选5走势图,且有望達到100個。但說實話,我現在根本沒有考慮自己。我想的是我們的屠夫内蒙古11选5走势图,他有抵押貸款和賬單要付,還有15到20個農民為我們種地。我有一個雞蛋供應商約翰·B·金,去年為我擴增了養殖量?内蒙古11选5走势图,F在雞開始下蛋内蒙古11选5走势图,而他必須要給那些雞蛋找到出路。我們需要維持下去,這樣才不會輸得一敗涂地,但我們也必須盡可能幫助一路上同行的人。

    你的日常工作都是在自然環境中,會不會因此對現在的情況有些不同的理解?

    我想任何在自然中或戶外工作的人都會說,會的。在這個時刻,我們需要反思,意識到自己太理所當然地看待一切了。這是我們歷史上的重要時刻,需要回顧過去,作出反思:“伙計,在此之前,我們太把一切都當成是理所當然的了∧诿晒?1选5走势图!毕M覀兡苡兴淖?内蒙古11选5走势图。

    未來有什么種植計劃?

    我們還是要做本該做的事∧诿晒?1选5走势图?赡軙谟衩缀凸任锷隙嗷c精力,但仍然在種西紅柿、辣椒。將要應對的只是7月能不能賣出18箱辣椒這種不確定性。但我們還是會繼續耕種。只要還能繼續,我們就會繼續干下去。(財富新聞網)

    譯者:Agatha

    伊恩·布倫德家務農的歷史,可以追溯到他父親那一脈六代以前内蒙古11选5走势图。布倫德家的可持續農場“綠草地”占地22英畝内蒙古11选5走势图,位于美國賓夕法尼亞州中南部的蘭卡斯特縣——一個擁有全美最高產的無灌溉農田的縣城。布倫德說:“蘭卡斯特縣五分之一的工作都和農業有關?!?/p>

    從漢密爾頓主持修建獨立廳的日子算起,該縣就成了費城真正意義上的生命線;而位于城鎮和鄉村之間的蘭開斯特大道,綿延60英里内蒙古11选5走势图,是為了方便農民送貨而建。布倫德延續了這一傳統内蒙古11选5走势图,每周四開著卡車(冬季兩輛内蒙古11选5走势图,旺季最多四輛)給120位主廚的餐廳送貨。但最近,這些客戶的餐廳幾乎都因新冠病毒的蔓延而暫時關閉了。

    《財富》雜志對布倫德進行了采訪内蒙古11选5走势图,詢問冠狀病毒對其用工情況和未來計劃的影響,也了解了他如何消化冠狀病毒帶來的情緒和財務上的壓力。

    以下采訪內容經過精簡及少量編輯。

    《財富》:綠草地是如何起步的?

    布倫德:我父親家本來是務農的,后來他上了大學,畢業后在工程行業工作,但他一直有一個半英畝的花園。有一天,他發現農業才是他真正想做的事業。70年代末80年代初,他把阿米什人帶去雷丁車站市場,后來他問能不能從他的花園里帶一些東西來賣。那差不多算是我們農場的起源。廚師們來到市場,從他那里買些東西餐館的原材料,再后來他買了輛二手小貨車,裝一個箱子,開始往城里送東西。

    那時人們對當地可持續種植的農產品興趣大嗎?

    剛起步時内蒙古11选5走势图,想要把同樣能在農產品區買到東西賣到兩倍的價格,真的是一件很難的事情。你需要跟他們解釋:“這是我昨天才摘的,也就是說昨天剛從地里挖出來的。如果你好好儲存,能放上兩禮拜,不像那些從外地運來的東西,你收到的時候可能已經從地里摘出來一兩個禮拜了内蒙古11选5走势图?内蒙古11选5走势图!边@是我父親早期向人推銷的賣點,后來我們在此基礎上逐步發展内蒙古11选5走势图。

    農場是從什么時候開始真正發展起來?

    大概在21世紀初,我決定以經營農場為生。雖然在此之前,批發業務就已經存在了。但真正爆炸式發展,真的有越來越多的人關注食物的來源是在21世紀初。我們每周都會將訂貨表通過電子郵箱發給大約650個人内蒙古11选5走势图,其中約有120個人一整年都會下單。在淡季,比如假期剛過那段時間,每天可能只有35到40個訂單。但在夏末秋初的旺季内蒙古11选5走势图,每天最多能送75單。

    大西洋中部正在步入春天,果樹開了花,坡道上五顏六色内蒙古11选5走势图。農場里的氣氛怎么樣?

    當前的不確定性,使我們無法在春季全力以赴,這必然造成了很大阻礙。事發前一周内蒙古11选5走势图,我們還送了53單内蒙古11选5走势图。那些提供外賣的餐館仍在下訂單内蒙古11选5走势图。差不多是平常業務量的10%内蒙古11选5走势图。我們還用餐館里回收的油為溫室供能内蒙古11选5走势图,現在也弄不到了?,F有儲備還夠用一個季度,但如果不能為冬天做足儲備,就將損失一大筆錢。

    像綠草地這樣的小型家庭農場經濟上會受到什么影響?

    哪怕經濟景氣時,靠種地賺錢也是很困難的。為什么農民和廚師能和諧相處?至少在我看來,全國農民和廚師整體上相處地非常和諧内蒙古11选5走势图。這或許因為,我們把擁有的一切,無論是經濟還是精神上的一切,都投入到了農場和餐館中内蒙古11选5走势图。但得到的經濟回報卻少得可憐。我真覺得,美國政府被打了個措手不及。如果說有什么事能讓大家認識到,事情真的需要發生改變,就是當前正在發生的了内蒙古11选5走势图。

    這是當地農民的普遍看法嗎?

    除了農場種地的農民,我很少和本地其他農民交流。我爸爸、我還有我們的工作人員,我們不是蘭卡斯特縣農業的典型代表。

    綠草地的主要客戶是餐廳,眼下你要如何調整農場業務?

    當一切都在走下坡路時,我的得力助手戴夫·卡爾說:“伙計内蒙古11选5走势图,我們做個面向普通消費者的產品盒子吧?!蔽抑滥诿晒?1选5走势图,做農場共享、農場盒子或社區支持農業都不是什么新鮮事,但對我們來說卻是全新的,真的就像離開了水的魚。我們目前在做30美元的單盒和55美元的雙盒,還有肉類和奶制品盒子内蒙古11选5走势图,在費城城內及周邊有四個取貨點。

    農場盒子里一般都有什么?

    現在内蒙古11选5走势图,每個人的免疫系統都比任何時候更需要增強,所以我們會把農場種植的天然抗病毒或者對人體免疫系統非常有益的食材放進盒子。例如,本周我們會配送圣羅勒和茼蒿,這是一種日本菊科植物,在亞洲有些地方當作補品。還有蜂蜜、蘑菇、西洋菜苔,都非常有營養,味道也很好内蒙古11选5走势图。

    農場盒子能維持農場這段時間的運營嗎内蒙古11选5走势图?

    目前為止,我們已經有60個注冊用戶,且有望達到100個。但說實話,我現在根本沒有考慮自己内蒙古11选5走势图。我想的是我們的屠夫,他有抵押貸款和賬單要付,還有15到20個農民為我們種地。我有一個雞蛋供應商約翰·B·金,去年為我擴增了養殖量?,F在雞開始下蛋,而他必須要給那些雞蛋找到出路。我們需要維持下去,這樣才不會輸得一敗涂地,但我們也必須盡可能幫助一路上同行的人。

    你的日常工作都是在自然環境中,會不會因此對現在的情況有些不同的理解?

    我想任何在自然中或戶外工作的人都會說内蒙古11选5走势图内蒙古11选5走势图,會的。在這個時刻,我們需要反思,意識到自己太理所當然地看待一切了。這是我們歷史上的重要時刻,需要回顧過去,作出反思:“伙計,在此之前,我們太把一切都當成是理所當然的了内蒙古11选5走势图?!毕M覀兡苡兴淖?。

    未來有什么種植計劃?

    我們還是要做本該做的事∧诿晒?1选5走势图?赡軙谟衩缀凸任锷隙嗷c精力,但仍然在種西紅柿、辣椒。將要應對的只是7月能不能賣出18箱辣椒這種不確定性内蒙古11选5走势图。但我們還是會繼續耕種。只要還能繼續,我們就會繼續干下去。(財富新聞網)

    譯者:Agatha

    On his father Glenn’s side, Ian Brendle’s family goes back six generations in agriculture. The Brendles’ sustainability-focused farm, Green Meadow, spreads out across 22 acres of Lancaster County, the south-central Pennsylvania district boasting the most productive nonirrigated farmland in the U.S. “One in every five jobs in Lancaster County is ag-based,” Brendle says.

    The county has been a literal lifeline for Philadelphia from the days Hamilton hung around Independence Hall; Lancaster Avenue, stretching 60 miles between town and country, was established so farmers could deliver their goods. Brendle continues in that tradition, running delivery trucks (two in the winter, up to four in the high growing seasons) every Thursday from Green Meadow to 120 chef clients—nearly all of whose restaurants have been temporarily closed by the coronavirus pandemic.

    Fortune spoke with Brendle for a new series, The Coronavirus Economy, to ask about how COVID-19 has affected his employment status and his plans for the future, and to get a sense of how he is handling this news both emotionally and financially.

    The following interview has been condensed and lightly edited.

    Fortune: How did Green Meadow get started?

    Brendle: My dad was born into farming, then went to college and worked in engineering, but he always kept a half-acre garden. One day he decided farming was what he wanted to do. He started by taking Amish guys down to Reading Terminal Market back in the late ’70s, early ’80s, then he asked if he could bring a few items from his garden to sell. It just sort of grew from there. Chefs would come in and buy stuff from him to use at the restaurants, and eventually he took an old pickup truck, threw a box on it, and started taking stuff into the city.

    Was there much interest in local, sustainably grown produce back then?

    When my dad first started, it was really a tough sales pitch to try to charge twice the amount of money for the same type of thing [chefs] would buy down at the produce junction. It took explaining, “Well, hey, I just picked this yesterday. So it’s only been out of the ground since yesterday. If you take care of it, you’ve got two weeks until you have to use it as opposed to something that’s shipped in that could have been picked 10 or 14 days before the time that you receive it.” So that was really the selling point that he drove home early on, then just kind of built on that.

    When did things really take off for the farm?

    The wholesale business was already in place before I decided to make [farming] my livelihood around the early 2000s. That’s when you could say it really exploded, and I saw more and more people really, really being into where the food came from. Our weekly order list goes out to about 650 individual email addresses, and about 120 order consistently through the year. At slow times, like right after the holidays, we might only have 35 or 40 deliveries. Then at the height, late summer into early fall, we’re looking at up to 75 deliveries to make in one day.

    The mid-Atlantic is on the precipice of spring—fruit trees are flowering, ramps are popping. What’s the mood like on the farm?

    Dealing with the uncertainty, not being able to just go 100% full bore into spring season has definitely been a real kick in the ass. The week before everything went down, we made 53 deliveries. The restaurants that are doing takeout and delivery are still ordering. I would say that represents 10% of our typical business. We also use recycled fryer oil from restaurants to power our greenhouses, and that’s not available now. We have enough for the rest of this season, but if we don’t have a stockpile built up for winter, we’re missing out huge.

    What’s the economic impact of that for a small family farm like Green Meadow?

    In good times, it’s incredibly hard to make money farming. I think one of the reasons why farmers and chefs get along so well—and I think, as a whole throughout the country, farmers and chefs get along really well—you pour everything you have into [a farm or a restaurant] both financially and psychologically, and you get very little financial return. I really feel like the U.S. government was caught with its pants down. If there was ever a more glaring notification to everyone that things truly need to change in this country, this is it.

    Is that a common sentiment among the farmers in your area?

    Besides the people who grow stuff for us, I don’t really talk to other farmers in my area. My dad and I and our crew here, we are not the norm in agriculture in Lancaster County.

    With chefs as Green Meadow’s primary customers, how are you adapting the farm’s business?

    So basically, as everything was going down, my right-hand man, Dave Carr, he was like, “Dude, let’s just do a produce box for the public.” I know doing a farm share or farm box or CSA is nothing new, but it’s totally new to us—fish out of the water for real. We’re doing a $30 single farm box and a $55 double farm box, as well as meat and dairy boxes, and have four pickup locations in and around Philly.

    What’s in a typical farm box?

    Right now, more than ever, everyone’s immune system needs to be as boosted as possible, so we’re going to be putting in things we grow that are naturally antiviral or really good for your immune system. This week, for example, we’ll have holy basil and shungiku, which is a Japanese chrysanthemum and used in parts of Asia as a cold tonic. Honey. Mushrooms. All the rabes, which are incredibly nutritious and taste good, too.

    Do you think the boxes will help carry the farm during this time?

    We have about 60 sign-ups so far and are hoping to get to about 100, but honestly I’m not even thinking about ourselves right now. I’m thinking about our butcher, who’s got a mortgage and bills to pay, and our network of 15 to 20 farmers who also grow for us. I’ve got an egg guy, John B. King, who increased his flock for me last year. This is when chickens start to go into cruise control, and he’s got to move those eggs. We need to stay afloat so that we don’t lose our ass, but we also have to help as many other people along the way as we can.

    Does working so closely with nature on the day to day give you a different perspective on the situation?

    I think anyone that works in the elements or works outside would say it does. I think this is a time where we’re able to reflect and realize we all take things for granted. This is that time in our history where we’re going to look back and be like, “Man, up until that point we took so much for granted.” And hopefully we change.

    What does the planting plan look like moving forward?

    We’re still going to do all the same shit that we were going to do. We might dip a little bit more into the acreage for corn and grain, but we’re still putting tomatoes out, still putting peppers out. I just need to deal with the unknown of whether I am going to be able to sell 18 boxes of peppers in July. But we’ll keep farming our ground. We’ll keep going till the wheels fall off, man.

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